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Train riding in Albania and other adventures - our Albania trip



What a challenge to write down our recent trip to Albania - I am not sure if I can really share with you all the things I have in my mind and that I want to tell you in the way they deserve it. This trip was probably one of the most challenging my boyfriend and I have ever done - but also one of those that we will never forget and tell about over and over again. 


Albania is a country well worth to visit. One of the few destinations in Europe that is still not overrun by tourism. Where you still have to improvise a bit and where you are not sure if everything is gonna work the way you planned it. It's not always beautiful there. Sometimes even quite ugly. Big trash problem, stray dogs and dangerous traffic. Where you fear you are going to die while riding a train. A country that is still developing, whereold meets new. Where you can really feel the transformation in progress. But also a country with perfect beaches and scenic landscapes. Beautiful UNESCO world heritage villages. A fascinating history. Good parties! And last but not least: A country with fantastic, hospitable, friendly and cheerful people. We loved it. And we will surely go back soon! 


Actually, we had planned to travel the Balkans for 2 weeks in October. Covid crashed our plans and  we rescheduled: One week Albania in November. A season that is not necessarily known as a suitable travel time for this country. With not much expectation but very curious, we set off. 

First surprise: We flew from Belgrade to Tirana by a propeller plane. Next surprise: The guy behind the counter of the rental car company generously offered us an upgrade - and got us a white Fiat Punto. As we found out, our "update" was not the most suitable car for Albanian streets, a 4x4 would have made life easier - fortunately, we only got stuck once in a big mud hole and were able to get ourselves out there. 


We stayed in a luxurious hotel called Klajdi Resort in Golem which we had booked for a very good price. It was the perfect place and we enjoyed every time we opened the window and looked over the Mediterranean Sea. 




A thing you see quite often in Albania: old bunkers

With our little Fiat Punto we explored the country as best as we can - off course a week was not enough time! 

On our way to the Llogara Pass






The city of Vlora




One of my favorite spots was the city of Berat, a UNESCO world heritage site and also called city of a thousand windows. It is believed to be the oldest town of Albania. Berat consists of two neighborhoods, each on one side of the river. Gorica was traditionally the Christian quarter, Mangalemi the Muslim one. Both are worth a visit! 

Berat is also famous for its castle called Kalaja, which is still home for a lot of people. 












The most exciting - and scariest - thing we did was a train ride. Even the staff in the hotel was surprised when we told them about our plans. Obviously, not much people take the train often, they prefer busses or their own cars. But we were too curious and therefore - after having some struggles finding out about the schedule - stood at the little train station in Rrogozina at 7 o'clock in the morning, surrounded by curious looks. We stepped into the small ticket office in which a woman was sewing and bought 2 tickets to Durres (one ticket costs around 60 cents). The woman added the destination to the ticket by hand and off we went. 

To be honest, the train ride would have been a funny experience if it hadn't be that scary. The train was very old and in bad condition. It shook, the windows were partly broken, there were holes in the ground and no light. Little children smoking inside the train, people who didn't stop trying to sell us things. I will stop here, but will probably process these experiences in an extra post. I'm glad we did it. And I'm glad we are still alive. But let me tell you: For our trip back, we took the taxi. 


 






One of the beautiful towns we visited is Kruje. It has a lot to offer: museums, a bazar , a fortress from which Skanderbeg, Albania's national hero, defended the country from invasions of the Ottomans, and a stunning view over the country. 






On our last day, we had the chance to visit Tirana, Albanias capital city. We had expected a concrete jungle, and this was quite the case, but not only! We were fascinated by this city, it's the perfect mix of old and new - here you can really feel the massive transformation Albania has undergone since the end of the communist regime. The city seems to grow, everywhere is construction work, new skyscrapers arise, there are plenty of nice cafés and shops, its a very lively city! 

We visited also "Bunk'art 2", an exhibition in an old bunker that shows the security history of dictator Enver Hoxha. Fascinating, shocking, depressing, but very helpful  to understand the country better.







At the end of the week, we both didn't want to leave. There would have been so much more to see and do - hot springs, waterfalls, canyons, beaches, hikes. But we are very curious how Albania will transform itself and are really keen on going back in some years to see what has happened. We are so happy that we discovered this country - and I really hope you will soon be too! 



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