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Finally on the road again: Our Sardinia roadtrip

 

Yaaaay! Finally, I am able to write about a new trip! It seems like it was ages ago when you could travel without constantly reading the new entry regulations and having to fear that a trip has to be cancelled and you have to go into quarantine. But we were lucky and I would like to tell you about our 2 weeks on the Italian island Sardinia. 

We made a road trip with a rental car and always booked the hotels the day before, both was no problem, except for "agriturismo". We loved the "agriturismi", accomodations led by private people and most of the time surrounded by beautiful landscapes. The food there was always amazing and the atmosphere very familiar. Make sure to book in advance if you plan to stay in this kind of accomodations, as they are very popular (even during Corona-times).

We flew from Basel to Cagliari, which was a short and easy flight. Off course we started our adventure with a late pizza and the next day we took some time to exlore the beautiful city. 



Italian coffee and the tourist is happy 

From Cagliari, we started our drive along the east cost, explored the beautiful coasts of Costa Rey and had a first swim in the still warm Mediterranean sea. 



Next stop was the Gola Su Gorropu canyon, Europes largest canyon. To get there, you have to hike quite a lot and we really underestimated the time we needed for that (and the amount of water we needed in the heat!). Once down in the canyon it was funny to climb all those massive rocks (also quite dangerous, but this fact we ignored). The way back up was less funny and we were happy to be back in the car after some hours.




We continued to travel north along the east cost, enjoyed the beautiful landscapes and stopped in Cala Gonone, a nice town at the Gulf of Orosei. In our guide books, this Gulf was always described as number 1 highlight, so we were quite sceptical if we wanted to see this probably very touristic thing. In the end, our curiosity was stronger and we booked a day-boat-trip along the coast. And what can I say... Lonely planet didn't lie. The day on the boat was really fantastic and one of the highlights of our trip: aquamarine blue water, white sandy beaches, caves to dive into. We loved it! 






Do you see the face?

Whalewatching? 

After the beautiful days at the sea, we drove further inland and the landscape quickly became more hilly.



The village of Nuoro

The next highlight followed quickly: We stopped in Orgosolo, a town famous for its socially critical "murales" (grafitties). Almost on every facade you will find one! Luckily, some other tourists recommended us to get an audio guide - with that we explored the town and got very helpful information about the different grafitties and the background of those artworks. Orgosolo is also known for being a former "gangster city". Some years ago, it wouldn't have been recommended to visit this town, on some doors you can still see bullet holes. But today the city is enormously exciting and somehow inspiring. We would immediately have stayed here even longer! 

3 little tips for your stay in Orgosolo: 
- rent an audio guide at the market place to learn more about the "murales"
- stay at the hotel "Il Portico". A small, very comfortable hotel and a very nice owner. Perfect to explore Orgosolo! 
- visit the museum Corraine, led by an old couple. The museum is housed in a beautiful house where the rooms have been left as they were about 100 years ago. The old landlord personally guides you through the rooms and tells you many exciting things. At the end of the tour the lady of the house serves a schnapps (Mirto, a Sardinian speciality!) and you can try her homemade cookies. 






Our next stop was the Sinis peninsula on thewest coast of Sardinia. We explored Cape Tharros...



... beautiful views and beaches...



... dramatic weather changes...


... and of course fantastic food in our favourite agriturismo "La Mimosa" in San Vero Milis. 


We had read in advance that there is a chance to see flamingos on the Sinis peninsula. But never had we expected to see them landing just the moment when we left the house for our flamingo safari! What a (pink) surprise! 





While travelling further north, we coincidentally crossed the old town of Montevecchio, a town which had been important for mining. We had the chance to visit the mine in a guided tour.  That was a depressing, but also very impressive experience. 




We made a small, worthwhile pit stop in Iglesias, a pretty little town in the southwest of the island. 



Another highlight of our trip was the overnight trip to the island of San Pietro in the southern part of Sardinia. We took the ferry from Portovesme and explored the small island by car. This was really worth it. Beautiful beaches and sunset and a very cool capital (Carloforte) with a lot of restaurants and shops. We could have stayed there much longer, it was like a holiday during the holidays! If you're there, make sure to book an accomodation with "Carloforte suites" (--> Link). We were so lucky and had the probably most beautiful appartment in town. The owner welcomed us warmly and gave us a lot of great insider tips. 









It was quite hard to say goodbye to Carloforte and the San Pietro island. Good that the next highlight didn't wait long: Bosa, a very colorful town at the west coast of the island. Especially for me, who loves colorful houses, this was fantastic and I almost couldn't put away my camera. 






From Bosa it was just a short drive to our next stop, Alghero. The drive along the coast was amazing! We arrived in our agriturismo called Arcamyrtus (very recommendable!) and were welcomed warmly by our hosts Gianfranco and Antonella. In the evening, we explored the beautiful town of Alghero and experienced by coincidence a concert of the Gipsy Kings. 

Alghero is a really beautiful town and in the evening there is a lot going on. 



Our host Gianfranco had recommended us to do a wine tasting at the most famous winery in the region around Alghero: Sella e Mosca. We trusted him and drove to the winery, which is not far away from Alghero center. Unfortunately, because of corona the cellars were limited for access, but nevertheless did we enjoy some of the wines on the sunny terrace of the winery. 





The last part of the island that we explored was Costa Smeralda in the North of Sardinia, famous for being the favourite spot for the rich and the famous. 

Not really surprising though that the first thing we saw was the biggest yacht in the world, the Dilbar, anchoring off the coast, right? 

The Costa Smeralda left us with a somewhat double-edged aftertaste. On the one hand, there are really beautiful, Caribbean beaches (our favorite: the Spiaggia Pricipe), where you can enjoy a very comfortable day at the beach. On the other hand, the capital Porto Cervo with its stores, which are 100% over the budget of any normal earner, seems absolutely decadent and unappealing to us. 


Spiaggia Principe and the Dilbar yacht 



Wondering about the prices in Porto Cervo and feeling absolutely out of place


After two weeks of intense exploring, we had to say goodbye to the island and took the plane from Olbia back to Basel. We had really enjoyed our trip, even if it had needed some time to get warm with the island. Despite other islands that we've been to, Sardinia has a quite barren landscape and I have to admit that we were a bit bored at first (of course it was probably also because of the season!). But after a while we got in touch with very friendly people, great food, saw the paradisiacal coasts and beaches and had to change our minds.  

During these times of Corona, this trip was a real relief, a little escape from the current, new everyday life, a nice change of scenery. Let's hope that travelling will soon be easy again - and that another little escape will follow soon! 

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My 8 highlights of Sardinia - MUST DO'S

1. the beautiful Gulf of Orosei. Make sure you do a boat trip along the gulf, explore the caves and go snorkeling - you won't regret it

2. the town of Orgosolo with its political paintings (murales) and the atmosphere of a former gangster city

3. make sure you stay at "La Mimosa" agriturismo in San Vero Milias. The owner Claudio is really nice and the rooms are very cozy. Every evening, you can enjoy fantastic food in a very familiar atmosphere. Next to the house there is a salt lake where you can observe flamingos in the morning. 

4. the town of Bosa with its colorful houses

5. Go flamingo hunting - but of course, only with your camera! In Sardinia there are a lot of spots where you can see those beautiful animals, keep your eyes open if you drive along swamps! 

6. Take the ferry and visit the island of San Pietro - a beautiful town with nice beaches and a capital that makes you want to stay. If you're there stay at "Carloforte Suites (--> Link). The owner welcomed us warmly and gave us a lot of great insider tips. And the room was the nicest one we had the whole trip! :-) 

7. Alghero, a beautiful city with an inspiring nightlife

8. The beautiful beaches of Costa Smeralda. If you like white sandy beaches and clear blue water, you will really like it! Our favourite beach was Spiaggia Il Principe. Maybe you will spot some famous yachts or V.I.Ps, the Costa Smeralda is famous for its famous guests. 

































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