I had been dreaming of the Faroe Islands for a long time. I don't know why. Nordic destinations somehow magically attract me. Wind, weather, loneliness, sheep. That's what I was hoping for. And I was not disappointed! The Faroe Islands are not yet as touristy as Iceland, but absolutely worth seeing. I was thrilled by the wonderful landscapes and the kind-hearted people who love to tell stories and are always ready for a good laugh. It's the perfect place for outdoor enthusiasts and those who are looking for some peace and quiet.
Some facts about the Faroese Islands
The Faroe Islands consist of 18 islands and are located between Norway, Iceland and Scotland in the North Atlantic. They are home of 50,000 inhabitants of whom 20,000 live in the capital city called Torshavn. The official language is Faroese which originates from the old Norse language. The Faroe Islands are a selfgoverning nation within the kingdom of Denmark. The main industry is fishing, followed by tourism and wool production.
The Gulf Stream provides a relatively mild climate, but constantly changing weather is to be expected. Wind, rain, sun - you can always expect anything. I was very lucky and haven't seen any rain during the week I stayed there.
How to get there
The islands can be reached by ferry or by plane. On my way to the islands, I flew to Aalborg, Denmark, then the train to Hirtshals and from there the "Norröna" ferry to Torshavn, Faroe Islands. On my way back, I took the plane (Atlantic Airways). If you have time, I highly recommend to take the ferry. It takes 1,5 days to get to Torshavn, but it's so worth it! The views are amazing and the "digital detox" very relaxing.
¨
Where to stay
I stayed in a fantastic hotel called Hotel Brandan in Torshavn, quite a luxurious place not far away from the city. I loved the modern interior, the friendly staff - oh, and off course the free glass of wine once a day between 5 and 6 p.m.! :-)
Torshavn - One of Europe's smallest capitals
The capital city of the Faroes is called Torshavn (namend after god Thor). It is said to be Europe's smallest capital. I loved this little city - the small alleys, the colorful houses with lush grass roofs, historical storage houses, its cozy cafés and shops - I could stroll there for hours!
Even if the Faroese kitchen is largely based on fish, I didn't have problems to find something vegetarian. My favourite restaurant in Torshavn is called Katrina Christiansen. Located in an traditional house, it offers great atmosphere and food that is inspired from Spanish tapas - but off course with local products.
How to get around
The easiest way to get around the islands would be a rental car. There are many underwater tunnels that connect the islands. If not, there are ferrys on which you can take the car. There are also local busses that run frequently, so if you're not driving and have enough time, this is surely also a good way to get around.
The most exclusive way to get around: Helicopters! They are nationally subsidised and therefore quite inexpensive. Tickets can only be booked some days before and they fly only one way - but if you find a way to organize yourself it's a great way to see the Faroes from above!
As I only had a few days to explore the island, I decided not to book a rental car but to go on tour with local guides. I booked via "Guide to Faroe Islands" and was very happy with this choice. I had wonderful guides that explained everything that I needed to know and I had a lot of fun with them. I would definitely do it again, it was the perfect way to see everything but without the stress of organizing, navigate etc.
What to do and see
The first day on tour, I explored the third biggest island: Vagar. There, I did a little hike along Lake Leitisvatn to explore the Trælanípa optical illusion. The views from up the cliff were absolutely stunning!
All along the way - and all over every island - there are sheep. And I could not stop taking pictures. Sheep in white, brown, grey, black, on the streets, everywhere, all with long hair. I have to admit they were one of my highlight of the whole trip! :-)
Another highlight of Vagar island is the little village of Gásadalur and the breathtakin Mulafossur waterfall. In this village, I had a wonderful encounter with a man that owns a little giftshop. He told me a lot about life on the Faroes. This is what I continued experiencing during my whole trip there: open-minded and friendly people who have the time to talk, to explain things and to have a good laugh. I always felt very welcome and had the feeling that I met old friends.
After Vagar, I also had the chance to explore the islands of Streymoy, Eysturoy, Borðoy & Viðoy, which offered amazing sights again.
One of the most beautiful villages is Saksun. Here, the time seemes to stand still. Some houses, a waterfall and a small church is all there is. Oh, and a lot of sheep off course!
Another charming village is Tjørnuvík in the northernmost part of Streymoy island. Here, I found a little sign that said "Waffles & Coffee". It wasn't a café actually but the living room of an elderly couple that gladly opened their doors. While we were eating delicious waffles, the owner sat next to us and read the newspaper. Another encounter that I found typical for the island. Foreigners are welcomed with open arms and the doors are always open.
And there was the picturesque village of Gjógv, named after ther gorge next to it.
Even if the flight took only ten minutes, if offered a breathtaking view over the islands.
A little trip without a guide was the island of Nolsoy. The ferry from Torshavn takes 20 minutes to get to the island, on which only 200 people live. It lies close to Torshavn and keeps the winds away from the capital. There is not much to do or see on the island except of colorful houses and off course sheep and a stunning view over the sea. Two hours would be enough to explore, but I had more than four hours time until the ferry took me back. Luckily I found a little pub called "Maggie's Music Bar", where I had a drink and some lovely talks with the owners and some retired fishermen.
One of the biggest highlights was the trip to the island of Kalsoy. The ferry leaves from Klaksvik and you have to be very early to find a space for your car on there. So the easiest and less stressful way to explore the island would be to park the car on the island and later use the public bus on the island. Or the one and only taxi! Yes, you read it right: there is one single taxi on the island. The driver is quite proud about that fact and a very friendly and talkactive man, so why not try?
The most popular thing to do on Kalsoy island is the hike up to the Kallur lighthouse. It takes around 45 minutes and it's totally worth it. The view from up there is breathtaking!
Oh well, and up there there is a new attraction! If you don't like spoilers then you better skip this part, but if not let me tell you: Since some weeks, you can find the grave of James Bond there. If was put up after the final scene of "No time to die" was shot up there.
Another attraction on Kalsoy island is the famous statue of the Seal Woman in the village of Mikaladur. The statue represents a woman who, according to a Faroese legend, was forced to live with a human but then managed to get back to live in the sea.
Last but not least
My week at the Faroes was way to short to explore everything there is to see. It was an absolutely amazing trip. There are hundreds of breathtaking views and it's hard not to stop the car every 5 minutes to take a good shot of a landscape or a sheep. I met so many friendly and open-hearted people and had some encounters that I will never forget. I always felt like coming home.
There was not too much tourism so I never had the feeling to be "a number" or that it's too crowded somewhere. I would highly recommend the Faroese islands to everyone that loves nature, hiking, lovely villages and who is looking for some peace and quiet.
I'm really sure that this hasn't been my last trip to the Faroes!
